Two destroyed pictures with masking fluid! Help

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I have destroyed 2 emerging images, I am totally depressed. I wanted to paint 2 birch pictures again, and already had a lot of trouble with the first one: I cover the trunks with WinsorNewton Masking Fluid (9-12 trunks close to each other). Already painted the background, 2 layers. When removing the masking, the paper constantly tore, not once, not twice, but constantly, with each trunk. The picture was broken. The next picture the same problem. Once I took paper rough Hahnemühle. The other painting picture I used Hahnemühle smooth paper. It made no difference. What I look for in Masking Fluid: no heat, no hair dryer. Apply thinly. Make sure the paper is completely dry when rubbing it off. Use watercolour paper 200-300mg thick. I think I have avoided all the pitfalls. And yet, 2 paintings in the making are now ruined and I'm just crying. All I keep reading on the internet is how Hahnemühle paper is praised for how great it is. I have now used 5 different papers from Hahnemühle papers (given to me as a birthday present) and every one without exception was of poor quality. Even the masking tape (I do the trick and rub it over my trousers first so that the glue is no longer so strong) tore off the paper, destroyed it. I'm careful, by the way, and don't tear like a wild woman, - but it's clear that it's the paper that's bad. I think if I don't use masking fluid and the papers no longer tape at the edges, then I certainly wouldn't have a problem with the Hahnemühle papers. But damn it, I want to make these birch logs now! Do you have any advice on which paper will stand up to this, should I use satin or rough, are there any advantages? I'm at the end of my tether, thank you very much in advance!
I’ve used masking fluid in the distant past, but just small areas like say a yacht sail that I wanted to keep pristine white etc. In a nutshell, I don’t like the stuff! But I don’t know what the reason for it peeling off the layers of paper! Robert just might know the technical reasoning behind it… I don’t think it’s particularly suited for masking large areas… I could be wrong! All I can suggest is to try another manufacturer, say Arches or Fabriano Artistico - in a heavy weight of 300 or even 400 lbs, the latter being available in the Fabriano paper. Alternatively, there are some other ways to mask off an area… other than that I can’t offer a more specific or definitive solution!
Thank you Alan! I think I need to find a way without the rubbery sticky stuff! Don't want to get addicted to something like that which ruins my whole image! That was a lesson for me now. I'm already thinking of trying other techniques! As you say, it's good for small areas, but the birch trees are almost 50% of the whole picture, so .....it's just too big a risk....thanks for your assessment!
I think Alan may have hit the target here - masking off too large an area; although - I'd like to know more about this paper..  I've used Hahnemuehle before, and found it excellent - it's a long established company.  200 to 300 gsm paper should have been able to deal with masking rather better than this.  Now - I hate masking fluid; I no longer use it.  But I seem to remember that it works better with wood-pulp paper and its allies than with cotton rag - any seasoned watercolourists out there who would know?  And was the paper cotton rag?  It looks as though it is, from the edge of the paper shown (unless you ripped it up in frustration, of course!).   The way to remove it is to lightly abrade with a finger, starting at the edges; but I assume you did that.  I also presume that this wasn't permanent masking, which does, I believe, exist What really troubles me is that you say masking TAPE ripped the paper, too: that can happen, I know, because it happened to me.  The causes can vary - tape too sticky, paper too fragile, and sometimes if the masking tape or fluid is getting old - its adhesive properties tend to increase rather than diminish.  The tape I use for securing paper to boards is Vibac - I think I got mine from Ken Bromley.  You do need to be careful with it, and ensure that the painting is dry before trying to remove either tape or fluid (as of course, you would be likely to do) - but I've had no trouble with this brand so far. I'm sorry you've had this happen to you - but don't cry!   Amend your technique, so far as you can: lift out colour with a "thirsty brush", i.e. moist but not wet; try to avoid using staining pigments in areas you want to lift out (e.g. pthalo colours, Prussian Blue) - I'm in danger of explaining more than you need here, and being patronizing!  Sorry if you already know all this: I'm just trying to console you!

Edited
by Robert Jones, NAPA

I’ve used masking fluid on Saunders Waterford NOT watercolour paper (which is 100% cotton rag) with no problems removing it even after a month or two.  As long as the paper is completely dry when you apply it (and when you remove it) and, as Robert says, very slowly roll it off in one direction with your finger - don’t be tempted to pull at it once you’ve got it started - and it should come off OK.  Masking fluid is usually used to preserve the white of the paper on fairly small areas.  You mention that the area you want to mask covers about 50% of the paper.   Couldn’t you just paint round the areas you want to leave white?  You could try applying some white gesso over the torn areas to save wasting what you’ve started.  I often use gesso to cover mistakes in watercolours, even on quite large areas, and then paint over it or sometimes leave parts of it white.

Edited
by Jenny Harris

I paint around the large areas because if the paper is slightly damp under the masking fluid it will lift . Even a small amount leaching under and not  get the air in or time to it dry will result in it lifting  particularly over a larger area. I stopped using it years ago and though it’s fiddly I much prefer to paint around if absolutely necessary I touch up with white gouache.  
First of all, thank you very much for writing to me. I try to respond to everything, excuse me if I am missing something/someone: I have tried to investigate the paper, but unfortunately Hahnemühle does NOT specify in any way what kind of paper it is, they only write: real handmade paper (handmade paper is a term that says nothing about what material it is made of) and they write it is acid-free. Basta. That's all they write. I have meticulously examined the paper, the back, the side of the cover, there is a lot written, but ZERO information. Here is a screenshot of both papers; one is "Rough", the other is "Smooth". Excuse me, my fat black felt marker was in such a rage at that moment that he wrote something rude, you are welcome to look away :) I then tore up both papers, out of anger and sadness. Well.... The adhesive tape: I also have 2 different types there. because I couldn't believe that even something like that could damage the paper, even though I am ultra-cautious about it: One was from Scotch, a very simple "removable" tape, so on normal printer paper in the office for as long as I've been alive, it has NEVER damaged any paper, you like to use it to tape something down and remove it again without a trace! Unfortunately I didn't take a photo of it. The other one is a masking tape, for painter's work, it is not specifically for artist's use. On the cheap watercolour paper from Boesner (a Swiss artist's shop similar to Gerstaecker) it also worked without problems, only Hahnemühle paper breaks! Question: Why can't you just paint the background around it? Yes, it's kind of for 2 reasons: 1. You are free with the brush, you can splash, blot, splash. If you have a birch forest right in front of you, and every 0.5 cm a white tree trunk, 9-12 white tree trunks (I painted such a birch picture recently, I had a lot of damage, but the picture didn't break, it's in my gallery), if you see how many birches there are, then it's already much easier to mask everything first. 2. I would have to mask after every 5 mm. 2. I would have to be careful not to paint the other trunk after every 5 mm. distance, I would be in a very tense state, whether I would enjoy it then... Yes, I rub very very carefully; of course only in one direction, but after the first 2 seconds the top layer of paper already sticks and they irrevocably tear the paper, there is no rescue there! I'll try to learn another technique, then I'll really paint "around it", have to be careful, but I'll learn! I will never again! destroy my painting with masking fluid! Never again! My assessment (in layman's terms) is when I feel the paper with my fingers: it feels strangely roughened (both types, rough and smooth) it feels like a microfiber cloth, a strange feeling. Neither feels smooth! I believe, that the rubber liquid will soak so deeply into this strange microfiber paper that it will drag everything along, there is no stable, water-repellent top layer of this Hahnemühle paper. There are many other quality papers from Hahnemühle, maybe I just got really bad quality here (my niece gave it to me for my birthday, she bought it in Konstanz). Edit: Just discovered in a small german watercolor forum this: Caution: handmade papers without surface sizing do not tolerate masking medium at all - the medium can no longer be rubbed off because it seeps into the paper fibers too much. The technique works best on fine-grained or finely rough paper that has good surface sizing.

Edited
by Tanja Gerster

I'm in the process of reconciling myself with the paper....poor camera light; It also works without masking fluid! WIP, first wash 🎨
While I don't have any useful information Tanja I just want to say that I'm sorry this has happened to you and you are so upset, knowing it is depressing to ruin paintings (not with this stuff though). I hope that you manage to get something sorted to your satisfaction.
That's very interesting, if not very reassuring! My usual watercolour paper is Arches, the secondary one Bockingford or The Langton.  I've used Hanhemuehle, though (as I said) and was impressed. Not much consolation to you!  This is of interest to me, so I'll buy some more Hahenemuele and see what I can do with it: I don't think I want to buy more masking fluid, though; but I'll certainly try it with tape.  It'll take me a while to do  this, because I still have some  Arches paper to finish with.   So sorry you've had this struggle - I'm sure we all realize how depressing it can be.  
PS - Tanja (by the way, the furious comments you've written on your watercolour pad reminds me that on occasion I've done the same!), maybe write to Hahnemuelle (and Winsor and Newton): some companies are far more inclined to reply to queries and complaints than others, but if you write to Hahnemuele auf deutsch, they may be quicker to respond!  
Dear Robert Thank you very much for your great understanding! I have decided to completely avoid this covering with tapes. I still do this for very small postcard formats, but I don't want to do it in the future. I get heart palpitations almost every time I remove a finished picture from the tapes, a stupid tear, a stupid hand movement, and bang: the picture is broken. For me it ends at this point. I would be very interested if you would also take a closer look at Hahnemühle if it ever comes to that. There are also different qualities at Hahnemühle, I don't want to demonize the whole company, God forbid. I now believe even more that it has to do with surface gluing. This has less to do with the quality and more to do with the surface treatment. One day I will go to Boesner and ask a specialist about it live on site. Thank you at this point for all of you who showed me understanding about the nuisance; Then you don't feel so alone anymore :)
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