New to oil paints 🎨 🙀

Faye, yes, alkyds under regular oils will work fine.   Water miscible oils CAN be mixed with regular oils, but as the whole point of them is to ease cleaning up and avoid solvents, there's no particular advantage in doing so - it's the modified Linseed oil they're ground in that makes it possible to thin them with water.  For preference, I wouldn't mix the two types of paint, but I doubt (and I may be wrong, don't forget!) that any harm will come from it.  I have done it, too, on a small scale.  I much doubt that anyone's paint will be falling off the canvas/board in the lifetime of the youngest member of this forum: it's more the very long term that the purist authorities worry about - will the paint crack; or fade; or bubble - detach itself from its support;  will it be possible to restore and repair water-miscible oil paintings.  I'd be very surprised indeed if any structural problem with the paint presents itself any time soon - one of the objections to them is "oil and water don't mix": but that's a chemically ignorant proposition, savouring more of stick-in-the-mud prejudice than science. Still, always a caveat - I'm not a scientist, either! Alan's explained that student oils contain more fillers than professional grade paint - this makes them much cheaper than top whack oils, though on the other hand the more expensive paints will be more intense, and you'll use less of them.  Winton are fine for now, though I too would have a preference for Talens Van Gogh, and even more for their higher range, Rembrandt.  Lucas oils are good; Daler Rowney Georgian still represent excellent value.  I think I've only tried a few Jackson's own brand - one was oil, one was watercolour, so not a great sample to base an opinion on: the watercolour was superb, it should be said: a really vibrant Pthalo Blue.  There's another own-brand oil paint - the Ken Bromley range: I have a few of those, and think them pretty good, especially the genuine cadmiums.  Then there's the 12 colours in the Michael Wilcox School of Colour range - only 12, because he believes that's all you need to mix just about any colour you  want: we could get into a much longer discussion about that, but not tonight, Josephine.... 

Okay well I wasn’t sure if they would mix together successfully, so I suggested not to go down that route, but I take your point… why would you want to anyway…  Just digressing slightly but on a similar theme, I watched a programme last night (I’d recorded it from Sunday) about restoring a portrait which turned out to have been painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds. Apparently, on many of his portraits, not all, he experimented using wax as a medium, adding it to the oils…  So, cleaning this particular painting was impossible, and it was dirty - obviously the medium used to clean off the top layer of varnish would also dissolve the wax and you’d be left with ‘not a lot’ I suspect! Good job they had the foresight to do some chemical analysis of a small sample first. Morale of the story - down deviate from the tried and tested methods of applying oil paint, it may not be favourable in the long term.

Old Josh also used bitumen - to disastrous effect, many of his paintings cracking before they'd even left his studio.  Yes, a very good reason to stick to the tried and trusted - experiment with form, with anything, but it's always best to stick to the simplest ingredients in your paint - the simplest and best being Linseed Oil and 'bodied' oil: i.e. sun dried or thickened Linseed.   Reynolds experimented in order to increase the depth, richness, and rheology - basically, the feel under the brush - of his paint.  Given how great he was as a painter, his mistakes have assumed tragic proportions.

Yes, it should do (remain, that is); if for any reason is disappears, I am more than happy to repeat myself (and often do..). 

You’ll find that Haidee-Jo’s book will have the answers to pretty much everything you need to know about starting off painting with oils. You’ll find it such a helpful book.

It’s also a pleasant and easy read!

I've got it in REAL book form, and in the digital version.  If you prefer video demonstrations, I can recommend the oil paintings of Charles Arnould, on YouTube: no dialogue, but his painting process is so clear that you really don't need it.   (Quite sure he uses Turps or anyway thinners first, incidentally - so his videos, and Haidee-Jo's book, should complement each other.)