Inspiration from Artists Week 52 Bonus Artist Edmund George Warren. Changed to Charles James Adams .

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Hang on Studio Wall
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by Alan Bickley

Alan thanks for picking up on the paper quality I had missed that essential bit off information and totally agree with you about the quality of the paper being essential. It’s ok to start out with a cheaper paper but you are limited to what you can achieve with it , although some excellent results can and do happen. The problem comes with the needing to change something a thinner paper will more than likely not take the stress of working the area to remove the paint , I’ve had paper that’s almost holed where I have been a bit heavy handed . Like anything else always buy the best you can afford at the time and progress to the better quality as you can , same principle with brushes and paint and I’m sure it applies to oils and  acrylic etc. 
I always use watercolour and used to be quite anxious about not spoiling a painting, which means you tend not to take risks and can end up painting a bit too tentatively. I’ve found there are a number ways of correcting a painting that you might think is only fit for the bin.  As Alan says, using a robust paper helps enormously (I use 300lb Saunders Waterford) as you can scrub or lift out areas without damaging the paper.  I did try the watercolour magic sponge eraser, which does work but can also remove more of the surrounding area than you’d like and is a bit messy.  My preferred way now of correcting either very small or even large areas is to coat what you want to change in a layer of gesso.  (I use Liquitex Professional). The painting below on the left was completely reworked this way - the reworked version is on the right. Another way to save a painting which you can’t take any further is to use a soluble wax pastel on top, either dry or wet - I’ve saved quite a few this way.  If you think a painting is ruined anyway, you can be more adventurous reworking it and often come up with some surprising results!

Edited
by Jenny Harris

There are two cheaper papers for watercolour that I find forgiving of error, and can be washed out successfully if you make a mistake: one is Bockingford, the other The Langton (which might indeed BE Bockingford, now I take a closer look).  I wouldn't use anything cheaper or lighter than that: that's a great way to get disappointed with yourself, and think watercolour isn't for you. Papers like Arches, Saunders Waterford, Milton (or is it Milford?  Haven't got any at the moment), Hahnemuehle, Schoellershammer, the heavier weights of Fabriano (I really HATE their lightweight paper), are lovely to paint on IF you choose one that suits your style - it's important to do so, because some papers just won't, however good they are for artists who can work with them.  Eg - I do like Bockingford rough, but recently have found I get on better with NOT surface, or even hot-pressed, in the heavier weight cotton rag papers.   And yes, it does get expensive - but then, what doesn't?  Necessary sometimes to just bite the bullet, buy the paper and paint, and set the dog on the bailiffs (I don't really recommend that, but how anyone can pursue a career as a bailiff I just don't know; there is, and this gives me some hope for humanity, a very high drop out rate: I enjoyed one explanation: "I couldn't live with being a complete bastard all day and every day" - well, well done you.  I digress, as so often....).
Excellent information from both Jenny and Robert despite his taking a slight detour. Bockingford rough is one of my favourite papers but it’s not useful for everything I want to paint as somethimes I want a smoother surface .  I haven’t used Liquitex but I do know from friends that it’s very useful. I had some paper bought for me by a very good friend who then asked if I would do him a painting , the paper was glued around the edges of the pad so that I could be used without stretching. Well a bit a disaster it cockled  like nothing I’d seen before and when I tried to correct a mistake the top surface of the paper came away in little bits . When I remove it from the pad it had a very smooth back to the paper, the painting surface was quite textured but this had be rough in the manufacturing process and was not able to stand a slight bit of rough treatment. You can buy pads like this in many high street stationery shops and so called craft shops , they are cheap but there is a reason for that cheap materials is used , false economy. My seven year old granddaughter love her own thick watercolour painting pad and doesn’t notice the bits of tissue like paper in her painting , there will come a day when she will tell me where I cam put it I’m sure . Do what I do have family buy my paper for my birthday, have a big one coming up soon , Bockingford , Archers on the list already . 

Edited
by Paul (Dixie) Dean

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