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With Sarah, Phil, Ellen, Rose the dentist, and the granddaughter whose name I forget.

Robert Jones, Napa

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Ph-ph-ph-photocopy paper?   Well  - um ; interesting choice.... Should you be doing this again, and for whatever reason don't want to use watercolour paper,  Daler-Rowney used to sell, and I presume still do, an extra-heavy cartridge paper that will take light washes.   Photocopy paper,  even the  best quality, will always cockle whatever you do with it; even card designed for bubble-jet printers isn't really of much use with watercolour - it's the water that's the problem,  the consistency of bubble-jet ink being very different to watercolour paint.  Anyway, it's not for me to lecture you: presumably you have your reasons - e.g. this might just be a trial run  for a future project.  But I see you tried to stretch the paper - and that's not going to achieve anything with copier paper other than to waterlog it and remove whatever coating the paper may have had enabling it to accept copier ink or laser: it's not even the weight of the paper principally ... it's the way its made, its absorbency etc.... Sorry to bang on at such length, but the thought of painting on copier paper  has shrivelled my vitals....  And you'll have noticed that while I said 'it's not for me to lecture you', well - sorry, I have...
With Sarah, Phil, Ellen, Rose the dentist, and the granddaughter whose name I forget.

Robert Jones, Napa

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Missed your shame-faced reply to Alan Bickley, mea culpa mea  culpa mea maxima culpa, and so on; for those of a catholic  tendency; but there may be something in my pontificating that could help - i.e. the heavy-weight cartridge from D-R; give that a try if watercolour paper isn't your thing.  Really though - there's a w/c for you out there somewhere: we all have to find the one(s) that work for us.. 

Alan Bickley

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There are heavier weights of cartridge paper available if it’s a smooth surface you’re ago… But, a better alternative would be to use hot-pressed watercolour paper, try a pad or block from W&N, I’ve got some here and it is nice stuff to use…

Martin Norford

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Thanks all. I will take your comments on board. 

Martin Norford

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As you will be aware I have posted this in a mono format.  Best of a bad job! A d I still think there some merit in going back to my original tracing and go down a different route.  Watch this space!!!
With Sarah, Phil, Ellen, Rose the dentist, and the granddaughter whose name I forget.

Robert Jones, Napa

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If you do use the heavy cartridge, don't try stretching it; it won't work.  Apply the paint to dry or just slightly moistened paper.  However, I second, third and fourth Alan's recommendation for hotpressed watercolour paper - of which there are many on the market.   And of course do it again - it'd be good to finish what you'd started, without being led up the path to paper perdition.

Martin Norford

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Having another go with some 140gsm paper. 
With Sarah, Phil, Ellen, Rose the dentist, and the granddaughter whose name I forget.

Robert Jones, Napa

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What sort of paper?  Don't be coy, 'fess up! Whatever it is, it looks to be taking the paint better. 

Martin Norford

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I picked this up in hobbycraft 

Alan Bickley

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Seawhite brand… that’s fine and I can see it’s working better for you!
IMG_3630

Paul (Dixie) Dean

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Seawhite produced some  good paper I’ve use them and they quite good will take a wash reasonably well.
With Sarah, Phil, Ellen, Rose the dentist, and the granddaughter whose name I forget.

Robert Jones, Napa

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Ah - good choice.  They make boards as well - which are also  good, for oil and acrylic.  Rather smooth surface, though - at least on the ones I've tried. Looking forward to seeing  your finished piece. 
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