Trouble fixing watercolour paper to boards.

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I wonder if I am alone here! I can't find a good means of fixing my paper to work on. The watercolour blocks are good, but you can't start another picture until you finish the one on the block, and I like to have a couple on the go at least. Gummed tape is not very 'gummy' these days, and in any case one needs to wet the painting to get the tape off the paper when finished, spoiling the stretched paper. Most masking tape I have tried isn't sticky enough and water gets under it, ruining the stretching process. I like framers' brown tape, which seems to work, but if a painting is on a board for too long, a sticky deposit gets left behind, ruining the board. I have tried stapling the paper to the board, but MDF is too hard to take a staple. This means I have to buy expensive, laminated pine to make my boards, plus I am not too fond of stapling anyway. I have seen some artists on YouTube using a semi transparent tape, but what that is called I don't know! The only other alternative is Arches 630 gsm which doesn't need stretching at all; but the cost of 5 sheets of that! I thought about mounting thinner papers on thick card, before starting work, but that again is yet another process and anyway, I can't find any reasonably priced adhesive film. Any ideas would be most welcome. Thanks in anticipation. John

Edited
by John Walker

I use a couple of bull dog clips but for lightweight paper you could use one at each corner.  More often than not I don't fix the paper at all but I do use heavy weight paper coupled with the fact that I do like to turn the paper to help with finer detail and  especially to help mixed washes to run together.
Well I always use Fabriano or Arches 300lb weight which obviously you can just put a bit of masking tape on a corner if you really wanted to, I don’t! I can’t help you here John, the transparent tape you mention is probably 3M ‘Magic’ tape as it’s known.
Back in the day at the Science Museum Library, we used a semitransparent tape, called music tape to fix torn paper.  I’ve no idea if this would help or not.   Personally, if I can be bothered, I use framer’s tape to keep the stretched paper in place and masking tape to get a clean edge.  This is a wasteful method, but works. When I can’t be bothered, I use bulldog clips and accept that the paper will buckle, but I steam or dampen the reverse side later to flatten it.
I use framers tape too, John. If I’ve had it stuck down for a while and it’s pulling too much, I wet it with a bit of sponge, leave it a short while, then it comes off easy. I’ve never had any sticky residue left behind. 
The trouble with a gummed paper that sticks - and art-gum paper will - is that .... it sticks.  You can't really remove it, and have to cut the painting with a craft-knife out of its surround; remembering to leave enough paper around the image so you don't lose half of it under a mount: although you can just mount the whole picture with the (archival, always) gummed tape still around it, the mount concealing it.  Doesn't always look great, I have to say.  Masking tape - water always seeps under it, depending on how much water you use - if you use a lot, it's likely to lift, and the water to spread.  I've stretched paper in the past - in all sorts of ways: eg, gummed paper, then masking tape on top: just ended up with a lot of tape and loss of temper.  In the end, I too went with heavier paper, and just secured the corners of the paper with a bit of tape, or used drawing pins (which does leave your painting board looking as if it's had a visit from the woodworm) - I don't have a complete answer, I fear.  I have tried basically going easy on the water, but then you're being limited by considerations other than artistic; which I suppose we have to be now and then.  Bulldog clips do work - Alan Owen and Steve Cronin both use them; but you need to keep adjusting them.   On the whole - I'd go for heavier paper, rather than try to make up for the problems lighter papers cause you.  But, a note of hope - some lighter papers are much less likely to curl and warp than others; or at least, they'll still warp, but not so badly.  I can see people saying 'the old fool doesn't know what he's talking about!', but Bockingford, of all the more economical papers, WILL curl, but nowhere like as badly or irretrievably as some of the other cheaper ones.  And as Linda says above, you can correct it.   I remember wetting one of the cheapest Fabriano papers, turning back to it, and discovering it had turned itself into a scroll - I think I flipped it over, and sort of forcibly held it down.  Nice paper in its way, but I stuck to heavier papers after that.  I suggest experiment with different papers until you find one that cooperates with the style you've adopted and the amount of water you use; have you tried some of the German papers, Hahnemuehle or Schoellershammer?  Or Saunders Waterford?  I know Arches is expensive - I have some (he said; protectively guarding it) - but some of the German torchon papers are excellent. Finally - I sympathize with the idea of working on two paintings at the same time, and I've no desire to encourage you to throw money away on art supplies, but - those gummed pads do work pretty well (not immune at all from buckling, though) and maybe buy two of them?  You're bound to buy another one sooner or later after all, so take advantage of bulk discounts. 
Well I always use Fabriano or Arches 300lb weight which obviously you can just put a bit of masking tape on a corner if you really wanted to, I don’t! I can’t help you here John, the transparent tape you mention is probably 3M ‘Magic’ tape as it’s known.
Alan Bickley on 01/03/2021 12:38:31 Thanks Alan. I have some of that tape, but never used it for taping down watercolours. Incidentally I always use boards to fix my paper, so no problem turning the painting around, a boon when painting wet in wet, and 'directing' washes. Robert. I use Arches paper mostly. Not because I am a 'snob', but because I like it; there's nothing to beat it for me. Yes Bockingford is what I started with, and still use it. Mostly for studies. Saunders is good, but I seem to have more failures with it. I just used my last pieces of Whatman, but it was awful, more like blotting paper, so I imagine it wasn't correctly sized. My other favourite is Fabriano 140 lb. I love the irregular pattern of the deckle, and it's another paper I use sparingly. Arches is No.1 though, but sadly the largest block they do, is getting on for £85.00 a go. I don't paint many full imperials, so two blocks of that aren't likely to appear in my stock! I have seen Steve Cronin and Alan Owen work with the clips. Not a bad idea, but there's something about a nice stretched sheet of new paper! And I don't work so quickly as Steve, nor do I use a hair drier. (Not a criticism by the way. ) I tried it once, but almost got brained by my good Lady! On balance I am thinking of buying the heaviest, Arches rough. (Which is more like a card than paper.) Excellent to work on too. I wouldn't mind pinning that down on a pine board. After all I am also a woodworker, so maybe I can grasp the nettle, and invest in some good pine laminated sheets to make my own boards.  Just a matter of deciding on what size boards I need. I can use the MDF sheets I have left for oils I suppose! Many thanks everyone and my regards John

Edited
by John Walker

I use framers tape too, John. If I’ve had it stuck down for a while and it’s pulling too much, I wet it with a bit of sponge, leave it a short while, then it comes off easy. I’ve never had any sticky residue left behind. 
Ellen Mooney on 01/03/2021 17:27:17 Thanks Ellen. The residue is probably my fault to be honest. I have a tendency to leave some time between stages when painting larger watercolours. I don't know if it's because I am lazy or maybe just putting off the various stages for fear of ruining the work! Thank you Linda. I had a bonus this month from the Inland Revenue of all people. Maybe I will invest in a few sheets of Arches 300 lbs. !  Thanks Michael. Like you I turn the paper quite a bit, especially when using lots of water, to distribute the colours wet in wet. I love the technique, but it doesn't always work. Another bonus of using the heaviest paper of course is a real failure can always be primed with gesso and used for oils or acrylic.  Regards John

Edited
by John Walker

Problem solved. I decided to stay with Arches 300lb paper (or heavier) from now on. I can just staple that to 5mm foam board, covered one side with 3mm sheet cork. No problem then with staples or heavyweight drawing pins. I have cut my store of 140 lb into varied size sheets for general work, using the heavyweight paper for stuff I might be able to sell! Some hopes! Regards John
Good plan.  No point in lumbering yourself with insuperable difficulties just to save money.  
Arches 300lb is a superb paper John, I’ve more recently been trying out the Fabriano Artistico 300lb weight which I’m actually favouring at the moment, not that I’m painting in watercolour all that much lately. I’ve never used the heaviest weight which I believe is 400lb, actually I can’t recall seeing it anywhere, Jackson’s would probably stock it I expect, they’ve got a vast range of just about everything!
Simples John, buy two or three watercolour blocks. 
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