Solvents! A blushing return....

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This is for Alan Bickley, really.  He mentioned the other day that he and I have different approaches to solvents and oils; which I had forgotten, but yes we have. Or had. For while I still maintain that you can do without any solvent at all, thus dismissing the principal claim in favour of water-miscible oils - I have gone back to Turpentine, with my Linseed and Stand Oil (apart from anything else, Stand Oil is very hard to use on its own; it's one thing if you buy it in a bottle, but if you make your own, it can assume the consistency of hardening treacle, rather than the ideal honey consistency).   All the same, using Turps has advantages - especially in staining canvases, and loosening up those initial oil sketches.  If you're going to buy thinners - solvents - at all (oil, obviously - is it obvious to all? - is not a solvent), I don't think there's much of a good reason not to use the most traditional one, which is gum turpentine; its aroma is such that you know you're using a toxic substance; whereas low-odour thinners, including Zest-it (one of the least toxic) don't offer a warning by advertising their presence. So yup, I've gone back to Turps - which at least means I won't now have to update my e-book.....  I thought, basically, what am I trying to prove here?  Whom am I trying to impress?  I could have snuck back secretly, but such is not The Jones Way. The only snag is that Royal Mail, Parcelforce or whatever they call themselves now, won't deliver Turps, because they think it's a fire hazard: not inside a thick glass bottle it isn't - nor will the fumes leak out and kill your postman - this country is strangling itself in rules and regulations that are more toxic than the products they're supposed to protect us against .... Fortunately, some couriers are less chicken-livered. 

Edited
by Robert Jones, NAPA

It’s the refined gum turpentine that I generally use for my initial staining of the canvas as well Robert. I’m looking for a degree of transparency  at this stage, so I tend to thin the oil paint considerably. I’ve tried just about every thinning agent/medium that’s out there over the years, but more recently I have tended to be much more aware of how much I use. As we all know, oil paints do already contain a degree of (generally) linseed oil as their binding agent, but I’ve found that the consistency of the paint can vary greatly, depending on the manufacturer. I’ve recently written a test report on the Wallace Seymour brand of handmade oil paints (it’s available to read on this site if anyone is interested). Fabulous paint in all respects, but I have to say that some of their colours are fairly stiff and definitely need a touch of medium adding to them. Plumpton Iron Red for example, being one of those, but it’s such a great earth colour. A quote from my article: ‘’Wallace Seymour recommends using their Fast Drying Oil Glaze Medium, which is a blend of Linseed Stand Oil and Dammar Varnish, with an added drying agent. It can be added to oil colours to a concentration of between 10-20%, and will create deep gloss and depth, especially to transparent colours. Used in this manner, it will speed the drying time (typically one to two days for thin/flat paint films). Dilute as required with Turpentine or Shellsol T low odour mineral solvent.’’ This is what I’ve been using since testing out the paints, but in much smaller quantities. So far so good!

Edited
by Alan Bickley

Yes, I read your review of these paints - and fascinating reading it was: all oil painters should take a look. On the brand itself - I have minor raves, and minor criticisms: they've brought back a genuine Manganese Blue, they've introduced a "Lowrey White"; both good developments.  Their Flake White - to substitute for the real thing - a) isn't a lot like Flake White, in either appearance or performance, and b) is extremely oily.  Plus - some of their paints contain Zinc; which remains something I'm not happy with**.  However - the good outweighs the bad, and the colours are fabulous. At the moment at least, I prefer Michael Harding, and Rublev, with carefully selected Daler-Rowney Artists' quality oils, several Jacksons' own, and my life is an expensive one to maintain, because I've gone right off student quality paints - these are the dangers of trying superior brands: once you do, you realize what under-pigmented, thin gruel you've been working with previously.... But!  I've known several painters who never budged beyond Georgian and Winton paint ranges, and still produced paintings that made me envious - it's not all in the medium. ** There's still a lot of controversy and debate about Zinc Oxide, PW 4: there was (is?) an interesting article about it on the Jacksons website.  I used a very small quantity of Zinc White in an oil sketch this week (I'd forgotten I still had some), to add a transparent white which I was finding it hard to achieve otherwise.... My inclination is to avoid it and any paint mixed with it; and it's generally accepted that we avoid it in all but the upper layers of a painting - but you can't do that if it's mixed with Titanium White, which it usually is, or Naples Yellow Hue, which isn't always even marked as a Hue colour: it's a complicated life being an oil painter, unless you decide you're just going to trust the manufacturers and use the paint they offer.  Well I would, if I believed they always know best: snag is, I'm not a bit sure they do - if they did, they wouldn't still be offering colours like Alizarin Crimson, at least without warning what'll happen if it's used in tints; still - caveat emptor, as your local Roman centurion would have it - up to us to learn all we can about our materials, if we're concerned about them lasting. 

Edited
by Robert Jones, NAPA