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Message
Posted
RobertJones (6/13/2019)There nothing wrong with a humble-brag, Robert! Since you added linseed oil in the additional paint layers, and no fatty medium was included in the previous layers, it’s unlikely that it will crack or have any adhesion problems. By adding a little linseed oil you have followed the fat over lean rule, ensuring that your earlier layers will dry quicker because they’re leaner than those on top, which will be fatter, more flexible and dry slower. This means that the whole work should remain stable and dry evenly without becoming brittle and cracking.
Snag is, I've been painting so long I don't have that many questions left. But, just to show willing, I'll ask a question about oil painting to which I think I already know the answer, but it might help others (cunning that, isn't it? What they call humble-bragging, I think...) Right then here goes - I have an oil painting that I finished, or thought I had, about a year ago. Looking at it recently, I realized there was an unresolved area that could be improved, and so I painted some details over it; not in a total re-paint, but just adding more pigment to particular areas. I hadn't used any medium in the first layers over which I painted, but used a little Linseed oil to the areas I added. Is this likely to cause cracking or adhesion problems in future?
Posted
landscapeart (6/14/2019)Thank you for your question, Pat. We think it deserves an in-depth answer so we are working on a blog post on this subject which will be published at the end of this month. Please check back then! https://www.jacksonsart.com/blog/
How do you dispose of acrylic waste water and dried -up paint?
Posted
carol (6/15/2019)Hello Carol, I'm sorry to hear that you had difficulties getting through to us on the phone. As far as I'm aware Daler Rowney don't produce individual full pans in either their Aquafine or Artist range. Feel free to contact me directly on [email protected] - with some more details on the set that you have I can contact our supplier and see if we can find a solution.
<p>I like to try out different watercolour paint brands. Just recently I've purchased a set of Daler- Rowney 12 full pans. I've been on the Jackson's art site but cannot find the full pans for replacement, my question Do you sell them? I have phoned to ask, but no reply after pressing the required redirect number, maddening. </p>
Posted
alanbickley (8/2/2019)Fantastic! We'd love to know how you get on, and please keep the questions coming!
Thank you Jackson’s for replying to my question about ‘scumbling’ in ‘The Artist’. That’s been really helpful and I’ll follow your advice about using marble dust with cold wax and see how I get on. I’ve got a few more questions lined up for you later on.
Posted
I have sent for some 'empty' full pan replacements from Jackson's art, as I have purchased some D.R aquafine tubes at a reasonable price.
My question-
I will be filling the pans with the tube paint for convenience, when out and about. What, if any, difference will this make to the paint?
The pans will be placed in an empty paint box.
As this is about watercolour questions I'd like to ask about the Jackson's Watercolour easel :EJ009, I've just spotted on your site at a special price of £60
Before I purchase could you give some information about the extra shipping costs as stated. It looks a chunk of an easel for the money.
Could I send a cheque or is it an online purchase only?
Edited
by carol
Posted
Well your suggestions have helped immensely. As well as using your marble dust, the advice about keeping the cold wax cool (I popped it in the fridge), really does help.
Keeping things fairly dry and a bit tacky is the way to achieve good scumbling. I'm only using it in small areas of course, sections of sky and so on; a knife or stiff flat brush works really well if dragged over an imprimatura. It really does help to add a bit of texture and impact - thanks again for your help.
Posted
I’ve recently won an award at this year’s TAPC open competition. My prize is a £450 voucher to spend at Patching’s Art Shop, and I had intended to use the bulk of this to buy some Old Holland oil paints. I’ve never tried this make before but am aware that they are top quality, which is of course, reflected in the price.
Having just has a browse through the Jackson’s website at the range of colours available, I am a little confused with Old Holland’s colour descriptions. Yes, there are some usual one’s such as Burnt Sienna and so on, but many of them have names I’m not familiar with; for example: Old Delft Blue, Barok Red and Scheveningen Yellow, just to mention a few.
I don’t particularly want to deviate from the colours that I’ve been using and familiar with for many decades, so is there a chart available that will convert these somewhat obscure and unfamiliar names into standard colours, as stocked by W&N etc, so that I know exactly what colour I’m buying. If not, it may well be a matter of looking at the colour on the tubes and taking an educated guess.
Edited
by alanbickley
Posted
Old Holland's colour range is extremely - some might say excessively - extensive. You won't find a precise equivalent to W & N's colours, and I'm unaware of any handy guide which might lead to an approximation of them. Golden Barok Red was employed by the late Scottish artist Ken Bushe in his evening skies, to great effect - his website still exists, I think, and somewhere on there (it's also quite extensive, if the whole site has been retained), is a brief guide to some of the colours he used.
Otherwise, the only means of checking what's in the colours, and what they have in common with W & N, is the Pigment Number - many of the Old Holland colours are mixes of several pigments.
There are other premium brands of course - Michael Harding's, Vasari (fiendishly expensive), and one or two other niche manufacturers - you might find it interesting to take a look at Rublev: I've yet to purchase any, but they look interesting.
Posted
I've just noticed this thread is a reply to Jackson's Art questions - well never mind. I overslept, and my brain is fuddled. Still: at least I'm not in the business of selling paints, so I can perhaps be even more candid than Jackson's! And as a gracious gesture, though a truthful one - I also like Jackson's own brand oil paints!
Posted
Told you my brain was fuddled, of course you can only spend your voucher on what's available........... I think what I'd do in your place, apart from gurgle happily, which may not be the Bickley Way, is have a splurge on colours I don't normally use, and treat the whole thing as a play exercise - get a few exotics (I know the snag there: chances are you'll never use them), try a few colours that aren't usual for you, but look, so far as you can tell from labels, as if they might be near to those you're used to or interesting variants thereon.
The problem with physically shopping with a list of Pigment Numbers is that you'll inevitably forget them - much easier online, when you can check against a list. But you can always create your own convenient list - not necessarily of EVERY pigment, but of the ones you know to be reliable and suitable for your palette.
Posted
Question for Jackson’s
As a prolific sketcher, who loves using Daler-Rowney willow charcoal sticks, which incidentally have served me adequately well for many decades, is it time to move on?
I’m seeing a lot of adverts in the art magazines for Nitram Liquid Charcoal, plus a host of other related Nitram products, all of which has left me a little confused as to what to buy.
So, as well as the Nitram Liquid Charcoal, which sounds unique as it’s obviously applied with a brush; an interesting idea and I can’t wait to have a go with that! Then we have packs of Nitram Mignonette in different sizes, also Nitram Charcoal Sticks, round and square, again in varying sizes, plus Nitram Academie Fusains square stick charcoal. What’s the difference between all these? It all starts to get very confusing!
What are these made of and how do they compare to a standard stick of willow charcoal, apart from being a bit harder and much more expensive? Can you use all of these in conjunction with the liquid charcoal (I’m sure that you can) and do these products require the use of a fixative?
Last but not least we have Nitram Powdered Charcoal, now I’m confused! How do you use that?
I’ve had a browse through the products on offer on the Jackson’s website, and as I would have expected, you stock the complete range. What exactly do I need to buy to get started? I’ll probably end up buying the lot and experimenting, but a bit more knowledge beforehand would be helpful.
If all goes well, and I turn out something acceptable, I’ll be showing my results and sharing my experience of using these products in a letter to the editor.