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Anywhere I Can Get Discontinued Acrylics?
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Posted
PY42 is the pigment on which Raw Sienna and Yellow Ochre are based.
So are we getting somewhere - try Pthalo Green, plus Burnt Sienna, plus Raw Sienna - all of which are transparent. An opaque yellow would be the Yellow Ochre. I still think you'll be a mile or two away from your tube colour, I'm afraid - but variations on this mix should get you somewhere near to it. Plus white, probably.
Posted
Taking an entirely different approach to the problem - I seem to remember that B&Q have a colour matching service. The resultant paint, would be household emulsion, but would that matter? You could have gallons of it and Acrylic adheres to it.
My other solution would be to look at Ian Siddaway’s colour mixing bible, which tells you what proportion to mix the colours with.
Posted
The trouble with Ian Sidaway's book - at least in the 2002 version which I've got - is that it takes blocks of colour and shows how they can be modulated by adding others, but doesn't identify the pigment numbers in any case, which massively limits its usefulness. The Sap Green he shows may or may not correspond to the version desired here - it's totally unlike the W & N acrylic version - so I fear the book is of no help in this case; though it's useful as a general colour-mixing guide: if not exactly Biblical in scope.
I hadn't though of B & Q, though that's worth a punt: IF you can find out what the Pigment numbers are. Trouble there is, again - Sap Green for artists' use is always a mix, and that mix is different, sometimes remarkably different, between manufacturers.
Armed with the information you received from Royal Talens, I would try contact other paint-makers to ask if they stock a Sap Green (and it might well have another name) with those pigments - or of course, try mixing them yourself. Should be an interesting experiment, if nothing else..
Posted
I will indeed - can't just look at it and say I've got the very colour, it needs a long hard stare like Paddington Bear. It's somewhat more blue than the Winsor & Newton acrylic Sap Green, that I can tell immediately. I'll do my best to find the paint it's closest to (incidentally, did I ask this before: is there a paint number, a PG number in this case, anywhere on the tube? I couldn't see one in your photos of the tubes, and expect there isn't; but it would help a little if there were one. )
Posted
You're right! My rotten eyesight - plus varifocals managing to leave blind spots - the trouble.
David Bourne - write those P numbers down for us, and we'll really be getting somewhere. PY3 is Hansa Yellow, a version of Lemon Yellow - again, Talens told us that it was Lemon Yellow, but Hansa helps; PY 42 - is the pigment from which Yellow Ochre and Raw Sienna are made: could be either in the above mix; the ochre will be opaque, the sienna transparent. It's that first P number we need. What's the betting it's PG 7 (pthalocyanine Green)?
I would take this to be a quite basic and cheap version of Sap Green, and though Hansa Yellow isn't that cheap, the others are - so I think they've based this colour on Pthalo Green, but confirmation would be useful. Then you've got a green made made of Pthalo Green (POSSIBLY Blue), Yellow Ochre or Raw Sienna, and Hansa Lemon Yellow.
This should be FAIRLY easy to replicate.
Posted
Now, here's where you should read ALL of the thread: your second reply from Talens did answer the question - it IS PG 7 (Pthalocyanine Green), plus Hansa Yellow and either Yellow Ochre or Raw Sienna. Somehow, I didn't even see that.....
So there we are, question answered - BUT your correspondent from Talens also pointed out that the colour from this mix is bound to vary, because paint isn't just pure pigment - there are additives, and conditions, which influence it. Have a go anyway - well worth a try. Take the weakest colour first (Hansa Lemon Yellow - you may have to search for this in acrylic; I think Cryla by Daler-Rowney offers it); add a little of the PY 42 Yellow Ochre or Raw Sienna) - then, VERY carefully and gradually, add the Pthalo Green - it's an immensely strong colour which can overwhelm you in seconds - add tiny amounts to start.
This should get you as near as you're ever going to get to your ideal Sap Green. Good luck with it.