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Posted
I decided to give Canson Mi-Teintes another go. Not their Touch card, but the original Mi-Teintes paper, pasted on to card, never again, the texture is too heavy, and to mechanical, even Daler Rowney Murano is better. I cut the peice of board into quarters. Just tried a bit, it takes too much pastel to fill the texture to get rid of the pattern. Now I've got 3 more 12"9" picture sizes to use, perhaps it may be better to dump them rather than spend a fortune on pastels.bestMick
Posted
Minor thread hijack:
I have been asked to lead a school mural project. There will be external and internal work, the former on brickwork (I think). I have taken note of the polyurethane varnish, but would like to know what sort of preparation of the walls might need.
Many thanks for any tips!
Posted
I was asked to submit a painting to be reproduced in public place .I refused then
but the exercise interested me
i thought I would make it a simplification of the subject
that would be easier to catch sight of quickly maybe like one gets when you posterize in paint shop (software) off course this is not anew idea
(it was used a lot in the sixties ,one favorite( MURIAL.shes a lovely girl..) of the old art schools was a group of miners walking from the cage in all their dirt )
any way I will pop one on the gallery .actually the same one,, I will be popping on the video section next month .but as a loose sketch
ta ta
boy the forums been so busy lately
Posted
Found the book! The Artists Handbook, by Ray Smith. Looks rather daunting, but this is what he has to say about external walls:<div>
</div><div>"The main problems associated with external mural work are damp, dust and the resulting lack of adhesion of the paint, the effects of the weather, and the acids and pollutants in the atmosphere.......</div><div>"....the most permanent method (of painting an external wall) is probably mineral (potassium silicate) painting .... where permanent, lightfast mineral pigments ground in distilled water are a applied to a calcined-flint rendered wall that is subsequently sprayed with a fixative...".</div><div></div><div>I imagine that has told you a great deal more about mural painting than you wished to know... It's certainly put me right off any idea of trying it. </div><div>
</div><div>However, he does unbend - saying</div><div>
</div><div>" ...very few artists are keen to prepare a wall by the traditional methods, prior to painting on the wet lime plaster."</div><div></div><div>Or, one is tempted to add, by the more modern method described... So moving on rapidly ...</div><div>
</div><div>"To give a brick wall a uniform surface for painting, it is generally rendered in sand and cement. The wall must be free of crumbling mortar and dust, so this is generally brushed out with a wire brush followed by a stiff yard brush. Any algae is treated with a proprietary fungicidal wash that is left for 24 hours before being washed off and the wall allowed to dry.</div><div>"The use of a bonding agent such as "unibond" or similar PVA-based materials can improve the adhesion of the render."</div><div></div><div>Well, I'm going to give myself RSI if I keep trying to transcribe this, so you'll have to buy the book..... The reason I've written this much is just to give a hint that if it's an external wall, it's going to need a bit of preparation beyond just laying acrylic gesso on it. Which doubtless you already knew...</div><div>
</div><div>Internal walls should be a lot easier: because they're already plastered - the advice is don't use oil paints, for various reasons but chiefly chemical reaction, and that acrylic or vinyl based paints work best on sand and cement render, or gypsum plaster. </div><div>
</div><div>Of course a lot of this is predicated on the assumption that you want the work to last for any real length of time - if that's of less importance, then I suggest you sand down the plaster, give it a wash with fungicide, let it dry completely, then apply acrylic gesso and paint on that. You could of course use household paint, either as the priming or in the painting - which would cut costs and last, probably, about as long as ordinary household paint normally lasts - ie, you wouldn't be expecting your grandchildren to see it. </div>
Posted
Dear to give a brick wall a uniform surface for painting, it is generally rendered in sand and cement. The wall must be free of crumbling mortar and dust, so this is generally brushed out with a wire brush followed by a stiff yard brush. Any algae is treated with a proprietary fungicidal wash that is left for 24 hours before being washed off and the wall allowed to dry....???