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Advice on watercolour paper would be gratefully received.
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Message
Posted
I have recently begun to paint with gouache onto watercolour paper. My intentions are to have the paintings mounted rather than framed because I want to put them into a browser when I exhibit. When I started painting gouache onto watercolour paper, I was unaware that the paper needs to be stretched and therefore the paper has buckled. I have since watched some youtube videos and learned how to stretch the paper. My first question is if I were to have the paintings mounted, would that get rid of the buckling?
I have been using Winsor and Newton watercolour paper and I have decided that once that is used up. I will upgrade to Saunders and Waterford colour blocks as stretching is a pain. Saunders and Waterford paper is cheaper than Arches and I understand that it has the Royal Watercolour Society's seal of approval. As I naturally want to make my works presentable, should I ditch the Winsor and Newton paper and upgrade to Saunders and Waterford paper?
Posted
Certainly agree with Syd - buying paper in blocks is very convenient, but if you go for any sort of scale at all, expensive. The W & N paper needs to be stretched - we all find that a bit of a fag (actually, some people actually enjoy it as part of the ritual) but anything lighter than 300lb is likely to need it. If you can't be bothered to do that, rather than ditch it I should give it away to one of those unusual beings who likes to stretch paper....
Once paper has buckled, a skillful framer should be able to flatten it sufficiently for display in a frame, but it might be more difficult to achieve that in a mount or browser: you can try various remedies, including the obvious and simple one of leaving it flat on a board with very heavy books on top (face down on the CLEAN, DRY board). Some would suggest running a cool iron over the back - but I won't, in case you sue me if it goes wrong... There are danger in doing that, especially if even a hint of moisture gets involved; but again, some would suggest very lightly moistening the back of the painting, and ironing it. I can only emphasize the risk of doing that, which is likely to be worse with gouache than with straight watercolour, because the paint could very easily crack. I'd only take these drastic measures if the painting is otherwise so far gone that whatever you did with it couldn't hurt it much more than it is already.
Saunders Waterford papers are lovely - the higher grades (weights) of Fabriano are good - and Arches is my favourite even though I quite agree, it's costly. The man you really want here is Alan Owen - he's tried more different papers than I've had hot dinners, and maybe he'll look in and give you a few tips. A surprisingly good paper, in my opinion anyway, is Bockingford - especially if you can buy it in the heavier weights: you may hear people say "EVERYBODY uses that!", but then if they do there's likely to be a good reason for it beyond its relatively low cost.
http://www.isleofwightlandscapes.net
http://www.wightpaint.blogspot.co.uk
Posted
Loads of good advice here. Like you I find stretching paper a complete pain. So yes ,heavy paper. though I am surprised that you got buckling with gouache, I tend to use it quite thickly and have used it this way even on cartridge paper.
Use your light weight paper to practise on or cut small for cards etc.
Posted
Thank you Everyone for your helpful feedback. I have an Arches watercolour block which was given to me as a present a while back. It is 140lb, but once I have used that, I will try out the 300lb Saunders Waterford. I have just looked on the Ken Bromley website and they do cut it for you. Saunders Waterford 300lb is £34.51 for 5 sheets.
I will have it cut into quarters. [url=https://www.artsupplies.co.uk/item-saunders-waterford-high-white-watercolour-paper.htm I]https://www.artsupplies.co.uk/item-saunders-waterford-high-white-watercolour-paper.htm I[/url] will take your advice Robert and see if there are any unusual beings out there who will relieve me of my Winsor and Newton pads. Have no fear, Robert, I won't be suing you now or any time in the future, ha, ha. Thank you folks once again.
Posted
I buy 200lb Bockingford extra rough by the sheet - cheap, doesn't buckle, good texture although if I have old work which I want to discard the reverse is only much good for practice (it has a sort of chequered pattern which I don't like).
Wouldn't dream of buying a lighter weight paper and have it buckle or having to go through all that bother of stretching - I just want to paint! Although, of course, there are ways of flattening buckled paper if you do have this problem.
Posted
If you want to use watercolour blocks it is far cheaper to buy the paper by the sheet and make your own than it is to buy one ready made.
I use 300g and 425g Saunders Waterford paper. I definitely recommend it. I order it from Jackson's, and they will cut it into halves or quarters for no charge. I do stretch my paper (various reasons) but if you don't want to I find the best way is to spray the back of the painting and weigh it down overnight. I've always been scared of ironing my paintings!
Kay Marriott
Posted
I am afraid I am a guilty person ,I know I should not advice beginners to use cheap paper .but I bought a pack of fifty from bromley
for the soul purpose of practice .,and if a beginner is feared of the expense of 200lbs and artists quality paints ,because it is shock to their system at first.
yes they can do something with it , if not a perfect painting ,and they should not be so discouraged they pack it in , I have done a couple of wet in wet ,hake type paintings with the cheap students paints and paper ,and as we know the hake painters use it..any way up .I did find that not over soaking the paper and just damping areas works ok ,,,,, ( I know I am being contrary because I and others like to use artists materials)
https://youtu.be/9PGCc_eYMB0
Posted
Ten half imperial sheets Bockingford extra rough 200lbs at £12.05 per pack plus postage from Ken Bromley but it does vary so just shop around.
To flatten cockled paintings place on sheet of clean paper face side down on carpet the spray back with clear water - a sheet of card on top and weigh down ( I use books ) - leave overnight - in the morning a flat painting - simples !
Posted
You've lost me there Syd - I was merely elaborating on the method described. If you prefer you can hold the painting in the air and spray it or, as I have done in the past, use a sponge rather than a spray. It doesn't really matter - as long as you dampen the back. The reason for using a carpet as an underlay is because it assists in air circulation which helps the drying process.
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