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Carpet ruined by acrylics
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Posted
The one day I do not cover the floor when painting and I drop my brush.
Now there is a lovely green stain on the carpet that instant application of water and even Vanish did not cure.
I now wonder whether I should mix some matching brown to cover the mark to blend in with the rest of the carpet (?)
Posted
Good idea. How about this one. Maybe its old hat.
When I put my paintings on show at exhibitions I attach labels with the details and my phone number using blutac. The adhesive is easily removed without a trace after the show. You can either attach the label to the painting or even to the wall.
Your local stationary might have some.
http://www.blutack.com/
Posted
Mirror plates on paintings , most galleries today expect them they are both a safety measure (more difficult to nick) and if hung properly look good when flush with the wall . But I am always concerned when they are sold...well hopefully sold that the buyer looks at them and hasn't got a clue. So I put a sticky label on the back describing how to turn them inwards and I add a length of picture frame quality string neatly bundled and taped to the back . Adding a little note thanking them for buying my painting. <div>
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Posted
I nearly always use just water with acrylics, and honestly don't believe you need three-quarters of the mediums sold with it. I'm not bad with acrylics, though I says so as shouldn't - some of my best pictures have been accomplished in acrylic, and I've sold more acrylics than oils or watercolours (though I don't exhibit the last of these as I'm too mean to frame them properly).<div>
</div><div>Acrylics as watercolours - if you are going to do this, I really do earnestly suggest you use watercolour paper, and NOT acrylic paper; you'll see why if you try to scan or photograph it later: the camera sees what we don't, hits the unsympathetic acrylic paper, bounces the light back at us, and shows the brush-marks as smears. I just hate the rotten stuff..... </div><div>
</div><div>If you want to use acrylic as watercolour, and you can, use water, not medium; apply it to watercolour paper, like Bockingford or Arches: something with a bit of substance to it; and use an acrylic that is compatible with this treatment, one that can be wetted down like, well, watercolour, or ink. And the best one that I've found for this is Chromacolour - it has fine particles which are very tolerant of dispersal in water and do not form ugly clumps. </div><div>
</div><div>All acrylics can be used in a watercolour technique, although some are far more difficult to achieve this with than others. But there are brands which only show the true beauty of their colours in mass-tone, some which are better suited to a light approach, enhanced with white, some which are really best applied as watercolour (not many of these), and some which combine the strengths of traditional acrylic (if it's been around long enough to have developed a "tradition") with those of gouache, ink, and watercolour. </div><div>
</div><div>Of these - Cryla by Daler Rowney is superb in mass tone - used thickly, opaquely, and yet still capable of considerable dilution; the Winsor and Newton colours - that much more liquid - are beautiful when used as glazes over solid, thick underpainting (which they can also give you); Chromacolour meets every challenge I've ever thrown at it - it works as conventional acrylic, as ink, as gouache, as watercolour. </div><div>
</div><div>Be it said, I'm much less familiar with Liquitex or Golden Acrylics, or with the various Vallejo formulae. Others can speak for them!</div><div>
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Posted
I use system 3 and I thinkit is great stuff.. however there are some superior people who
think you are letting down the side old boy by using what they consider inferior acrylics.
They use more expensive stuff and its bound to be far superior to system3'stands to reason dontcherno if you want to be a real artist (like him) .sot.....Syd :-)
PS This doesnt apply tothe more friendly members of the forum including Robert. !