At last!

At last!

First painting since November '18.

Never, in your old age (relatively speaking) take on a voluntary job. I did this one 30 years ago, and thought I could do it again - well, I probably can. But what I forgot was that I don't have the energy I had 30 years ago. And so I had painted nothing - other than a bit of touching up and the occasional birthday card - since November '18. I took August, more or less, off. It's the 24th today, so in over three weeks I still painted nothing, because I just needed to sleep, take it easy, and - I couldn't think what to paint. This is in so many ways absurd, because I'm surrounded by countryside, coastline, downs, and I have a vast collection of sketches, small watercolours, and photographs. Too much - couldn't choose. I have taken myself firmly in hand however, and have more or less finished an oil painting (which I'll post eventually). It isn't a great painting, but I just needed to get my hand in again - and never again allow myself to let other work stop me getting at my easel! In re-discovering oil paint, I have discovered or remembered a few things which I should like to pass on to eager readers struggling with the medium. I used a somewhat unpromising palette - lead white, a spot of Titanium White, Mars Yellow, Burnt Sienna, Cadmium Yellow, Viridian, and Prussian Blue - quite a way away from my usual palette, but I wanted to keep it simple. But it's what I didn't use that I wish to share. For many years, I used a solvent with oil paint - usually double-distilled Turpentine, occasionally Low Odour Thinners/Sansodor, Liquin (which isn't a solvent), and Linseed Oil (also - not a solvent). I diluted the paint this way because all the books I had read said that you had to. And at times, I have a quite literal mind. I don't like solvents much - they're all hazardous, and after I had bronchitis a couple of times, I began to realize it was either them or me..... I like the smell of real Turps, but it wasn't doing me a lot of good; and I loathe the smell of Liquin (although it's not a bad medium). I tried water-miscible oils - but have no confidence in their longevity; and while plenty of artists produce great work with them, I found them under-pigmented, and oddly sticky in use. I'm not about to crusade against them, but - I didn't find the experience in any way comparable to using 'real' oil paints (I know some painters in water-miscibles get irked by terms like 'real oil paint', but it's the only way I can think of to describe my lack of satisfaction with Artisan, Holbein Duo, Grumbacher, and the other manufacturers' products). So I was faced with the choice of giving up oil paint altogether, or giving up solvents. I love acrylics, and watercolour - and if I'd never painted with oil, perhaps I wouldn't miss it. But I have, and I did. 'Twas then I discovered the Painting Best Practice Facebook page, and the Natural Pigments website, which told me that - in so many words - all you really need is a little oil; solvents aren't necessary. I found this hard to believe at first - remembering all the warnings about 'fat over lean' and the dangers of cracking. But the point is - a little oil. Many paints flow quite satisfactorily straight out of the tube; if they don't, a small quantity of Linseed oil is enough to move them about, enabling you to employ the rigger to achieve detail, or spread the chunkier pigments more thinly. I've now - over an overly-long period, admittedly - painted three or four oils with no Turps at all; no LOTS, certainly no White Spirit: not even for cleaning the brushes and palette. Because all you actually need to do with your brushes is squeeze the excess paint out on a kitchen towel, and wash them with soap and cool water. It's no messier or more difficult than using Turps - if anything, it's easier. I also assumed that Turps was necessary if you wanted your paint to dry in a reasonable time. Again - not true. Linseed oil is a drying oil - I don't find that my oil paints dry any more slowly just using that than they ever did. And because I use lead white whenever I can get it, the notoriously slow-drying Titanium is far less of a problem: granted, its opacity is extremely useful, it's probably better for highlights than lead white, if a bit cold, but keep its use to a minimum and the painting will dry quite satisfactorily: especially if you don't use Cadmium pigments (though I do). When I get around to updating my little e-book Oil Paint Basics - which still sells - I'll amend the section on oils and mediums. Not that it's wrong, but it's not the only way to paint. A lot of people have had bad reactions to Turps in its many forms, and some have given up oils entirely, or moved to water-miscible paint. I'm here to tell you that you don't have to - unless you have a reaction to the oil itself, of course. So far as I'm concerned, this means that much of the rationale for using water-miscible oil paint has gone.
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Comments

Yes I’ll look out for it, and as always (but only provided comments and suggestions are invited), I’ll give my opinion and offer up any suggestions - not that I expect to have to make many in your case, perhaps none! Well of course I’ll always find some little thing! You know me! My Sap Green is W&N Artists oil, PY110 PB15. I use so little of it (who does!), so it’s possibly 20+ years old, but still useable.

My only hesitation with Sap Green is - what's in it? Numerous companies make it, it's a very useful colour (all makes vary a bit) - it certainly would work mixed with Manganese Violet (well, you know that!), as would genuine Viridian. But there again - Viridian is so often really Pthalo Green (do you remember the late Syd Edward's strictures against Pthalo Green? He wasn't wrong!); Viridian is more expensive, but it's a much, well - kinder colour: one of the most useful mixing colours we have. You can satisfy yourself as to the reliability of your Sap Green by looking for the predominant colour in its mix (ie the Pigment Number): if that's got a good rating, I should have no fears. Flake White was indeed a lead white - it can still be obtained, but only if you go searching for it; the Supreme Paint Company can obtain it for you. It went the way of all flesh when the EU banned lead, to all intents and purposes - and we in this country went even further, with the REACH regulations. Lead-makers closed down, and frankly just as well, because lead pollution of water-courses is no joke. But it is still made; it remains very useful indeed for all sorts of reasons (lead, that is) but a powerful reason for banning it was that China exported children's toys painted with it. And children chew and suck on things.... thus ingesting lead. Even so, the severity of the measures against it grossly exceed the dangers that regulated lead paint production poses; we always go too far in regulation, or not far enough - given half a chance, legislators invariably get things wrong... As soon as my painting is surface-dry, I'll post it in the Forum first of all - asking for suggestions on how I could make it more interesting: do look out for that, since I value your advice. R

Well I may have said this before, but during my college years, all of us used Flake White, which I believe is Lead White, you will know if I’m right here. It was excellent to use and then it disappeared!, reasons we now know to be environmental, again I may be wrong. Just been having a mix with some colours from today’s expedition. The Manganese Violet mixed with Ultramarine Blue and a touch of Sap Green (I hardly ever use this green), makes a gorgeous deep warm strong shadow, ideal for my Spanish paintings. Strange combo but there we go!

You tempt me Alan, you wicked devil - my own palette has been revolutionized from time to time: I found that Mars Violet did that....... I haven't used it in my latest, because I wanted to restrict the palette, but .... I had to fight with myself! There are so many colours - and yet some have been lost over time, when I look at old catalogues ... I think the biggest loss, though, has been the whites; it's hard now to lay hands on lead whites, but they're the best for paint-film strength, they're warm, they mix so much better than Titanium White with so many colours.... They're worth laying hands on, in short; difficult though it be. As are the genuine earth colours - not that there's anything wrong with, eg, Mars colours: some of them are excellent; but I do like to know what I'm using; and too much Yellow Ochre isn't Yellow Ochre at all, but Mars Yellow - I LIKE Mars Yellow; it's very useful. But it ain't Yellow Ochre, or Raw Sienna. I think we should all familiarize ourselves with pigment numbers/names, or we've no idea what we're choosing to paint with. Here endeth the First Lesson.

Yes, it is a vast range indeed. Far far too many, but I stuck to my tried and tested list that I’ve been using for decades. Well, I nearly did! I was tempted by Deep Ochre PR102, very rich gorgeous brown (I do love my earth colours). That may be a W&N colour with a different name - you may know! Then I couldn’t resist Manganese Violet PV16 which is a stunning colour, and frankly unmixable, and I will have some fun using this one.

Alan - I've rarely (actually: have I ever?) used Old Holland paints. I think their range is excessively extensive, but I've no doubt they make great paint. I have used Michael Harding Cobalt Blue, though; and it's also expensive - very expensive! But it's just ..... well.... gorgeous. And while his range is growing, it's nowhere near as vast as the Old Holland range; and I hope it doesn't become so, because colour mixing is, as we both know, important - not just because it saves paint, though it does, but because it teaches us so much. You're a far better colourist than I am - I play with different colours, but never with your confidence and bravura. I am far more drawn to learning how to mix colour which corresponds to reality - you're quite prepared to go beyond quotidian 'reality', and in that regard I'd seek to learn from you. We cleave, I think, to different periods - you to Impressionism; I to the period before that, but subsequent to the glazing techniques of yesteryear (which do, though, fascinate me). I think there's room for both of us! But I admit to taking perhaps too much interest in the techniques of yesterday .... it's a different vision, but I've never had any doubt that your work is more striking than mine: you beast! I think we both agree on water-miscible paints, though: to me, they are thin, and unconvincing - and those who use them convincingly are perhaps far better painters than I - in that they've triumphed over the limitations of the medium. But if painting is at least a little bit about enjoyment, and employing media playfully - I can't do that with water-miscibles. I don't enjoy painting with them - I think they lack subtlety, and one has to fight with them to introduce it. All praise to those who can, but I can't. I know Murray Ince, who paints exclusively in Artisan colours these days - I have huge admiration for him (and he's a lovely man, by the way - yes you are, Murray, if you're looking in and inclined to deny this) but I think he triumphs over his paint; I don't want to do that - I want IT to help me, not the other way around.

Interesting Robert, your technical knowledge is beyond good, mine is sadly lacking but I get the job done. I’m with you all the way with these water miscible paints. Glad to hear you’ve got a hint of inspiration back, it ain’t easy, I have a constant battle with it. I’ve just returned from Patchings to spend my £450 voucher. Amongst some other stuff, most of it has gone on the Old Holland oils paints. They are expensive I must say! I hope that I get on alright as I’ve not tried them before. 40ml cobalt PB28 was about £50, cerulean blue PB35 about £60. Anyway, it was a fantastic prize and I’ve been very lucky.