The quality of acrylic paint - not as obvious as you might think...

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Hang on Studio Wall
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I have been mostly using System 3 as I bought a set to start off with. I go up the scale for colours like Cryla Oxide of Chromium which someine recommended, but which I haven't tried yet.  Now it may just be my storage conditions, or the age of the tube (3 years max) but I found the System 3 Cobalt Hue to just fall out if the tube, it had liquidised so much, so I have a liquitex Cobalt (PB28). Bit of a mix and match now.
I’m not one for procrastinating, so I’ve ordered a selection of Cryla acrylics from Jackson’s Art. I’ve paid for next day delivery, but as it’s a Bank Holiday today, I might get them Wednesday! Then I’ll need an interesting subject, shouldn’t be a problem!
One is tempted to suggest a portrait of Robert, though perhaps some rugged rocks in a stormy sea would be a suitable alternative!
Causes me to reflect that while I've drawn myself, I've never painted a self-portrait.  There are some things that are terrifying in prospect. I must now go to the Gallery, on which Alan advises me he might have been overly harsh about my recent opus.  Heaven knows, one isn't the kind fo chap to bear a grudge or seek petty revenge.  It's just that Alan might need to take extra care should a shadowy figure with a catapult be observed lurking in the shrubbery.  
Actually, he was quite kind; in that Bickley-esque way we know and love... Interested in the "ditch the birds .... or at least group them"; I do add birds, usually in the hope of suggesting some kind of life, which means they're an after-thought; do I agree with Alan .... well, for once, I think I don't; though I do certainly agree about the value of Burnt Sienna as opposed to Burnt Umber: BU is such a mucky colour - but all I had in that paint range which I wanted to test.  My considered advice to you all, therefore: ditch the Burnt Umber - in oil it can just sink in, in acrylic it's maybe OK for ditch-water, in watercolour - well Alan Owen uses it sometimes: but I've never yet got the results with it that he can.  
Very good Robert, I'm always impressed at how the experienced among you can do something like that which would take me at least a couple of weeks umm-ing and ah-ing over. I think the umber is right for the weather we've been experiencing this "spring".  I see burnt umber as a warm brown and burnt sienna as a browny red.
Actually, he was quite kind; in that Bickley-esque way we know and love... Interested in the "ditch the birds .... or at least group them"; I do add birds, usually in the hope of suggesting some kind of life, which means they're an after-thought; do I agree with Alan .... well, for once, I think I don't; though I do certainly agree about the value of Burnt Sienna as opposed to Burnt Umber: BU is such a mucky colour - but all I had in that paint range which I wanted to test.  My considered advice to you all, therefore: ditch the Burnt Umber - in oil it can just sink in, in acrylic it's maybe OK for ditch-water, in watercolour - well Alan Owen uses it sometimes: but I've never yet got the results with it that he can.  
Robert Jones, NAPA on 06/05/2024 12:02:38
What is your opinion Robert of acrylic Burnt Umber for darkening colours, seeing I don't use black to mix dark tones? Must now go and hunt up your painting!

Edited
by Sandra Kennedy

Robert, I think you missed this question? Bringing it back up from the depths where it seems to have vanished.
I did miss it, sorry - Burnt Umber can modify the yellows, that is darken or desaturate them, and it will darken red, though at the cost of making it distinctly murky.  If you want to use it as a darkening agent, mix it with a little Ultramarine (not the other blues, because most of them will turn it a deep green - mind you, that may be very useful sometimes). Generally speaking, the best way to darken a colour is to mix its complementary with it.  So - a red will darken a green; green will darken a red - directly, or optically (in a glaze, that is, for the latter).  Blues come in a range of quite satisfactory darks anyway, so you'll rarely need to darken them, but the best way to do that is just add a deeper blue.  Yellows and oranges can be darkened with violet.  Experiment with colour swatches - not forgetting to make a note of what you've used.   Take a look at the split primary system - well explained by the Michael Wilcox School of Colour - or my e-book, of which I believe you have a copy: it deal with oil paint, but the principles involved are the same, even if many of the colours vary.  The problem with darkening any colours with black or brown (or Payne's Grey, which is very often used) is that they are almost absent of colour - well, black is totally absent of colour.  So what you'll get is often a sooty, ditch-water dark which just sits on the canvas and glowers at you sulkily.  Colour darkens - or lightens - colour better than anything else.   If you want a really dark colour, just a little of which can produce a range of greys (in oil, acrylic, and watercolour) try Burnt Sienna rather than Burnt Umber; it's basically an earth orange, so full of colour, and it makes great darks mixed with Ultramarine.  Other good darks can be made with a dark green, like (if we're talking about acrylic in this case) Pthalo Green, or Viridian if we're talking about oil, with any number of reds - crimsons or Burnt Sienna again probably work best, but a dark green plus even Cadmium Red, or Quinacridone red/violet, will give you intense darks, or, with added white (or water) gentle greys. There are many other darks which don't leave you with a muddy smear rather than the warm dark you were looking for, before you need to reach for the black, Payne's, or Burnt Umber.  All of those CAN give you satisfactory darks, but if you use them, mix a  bit of real colour in with them - a bit of red in black can give it quite a lift, for instance.   PS - the distinction between Pthalo and real Viridian in acrylic - if there's a hue named Viridian in acrylic ranges, it'll be a form of Pthalo Green, because the real pigment isn't compatible with acrylic resin.  If Syd Edward were still around, he'd be jumping up and down at this point and saying they're both horrible colours and you shouldn't use them, but - well, God bless him, but they're very good colours if you just know what you're doing with them and, particularly with the Pthalo, are careful of its tendency to take over your painting.  
Thank-you very much Robert for such a helpful and comprehensive reply. While I do use complementaries there is a whole lot of other info in your reply which I'll experiment with, and try to remember to note what colours I've used. I'm also going to refresh my memory on the split primary system. At least I do have a good burnt sienna, and ultramarine blue.  (I do wish Syd were still around, I miss him).  Again, many thanks.
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